While we're talking about obsessions, let's talk for a second about pink peppercorn. I'll admit that until recently I hadn't really been exposed to it very much, either as a seasoning or as an ingredient. I was over at my friend Hallie's house about to make what would develop into our delectable Pink Peppercorn Macarons when she pulled down her jar, opened the top and grinned. "Take a whiff of that!" I did--what an incredible sensation! Peppery and fruity and sweet all at once. I'd never smelled anything like it and boy, was I hooked. The flavor is unlike anything else and the visual appeal of that bright pink bumps up any dish.
So when I saw this recipe in Ottolenghi's Plenty, I knew it was one I had to try--plus I'd been lucky enough to swipe my mother's largely unused pasta roller. Once my sister and I got the hang of it, rolling the pasta was a breeze, and it was so rewarding to see how much thinner we could roll the dough with the machine rather than by hand. If you haven't made the leap and invested in one yet, I highly suggest you do so.
These, like any handmade ravioli, are pretty labor intensive, so set aside a good chunk of time and grab a buddy to help you if you can. The flavors are very elegant and as a result the dish is less comforting and more adventurous...but the sublime combination of the lemon, goat cheese, tarragon and pink peppercorn is certainly worth a go.
Lemon and Goat Cheese Ravioli with Pink Peppercorn and Tarragon (from Plenty)
(Ottolenghi says that this serves 2 as an appetizer. We found that it made quite enough pasta to serve two generously for dinner.)
For the pasta dough:
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 medium eggs
2 3/4 cups “00” pasta flour, or all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
Grated zest of 3 lemons
3 medium eggs
2 3/4 cups “00” pasta flour, or all-purpose flour, plus extra for rolling
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
Grated zest of 3 lemons
For the filling:
11 ounces soft goat cheese
1/3 teaspoon Maldon sea salt
Pinch of chile flakes
Black pepper
1 egg white, beaten
To finish:
2 teaspoons pink peppercorns, finely crushed
1 teaspoon chopped tarragon
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Grapeseed or olive oil
Lemon juice (optional)
To make the pasta dough, whisk together the oil and eggs. Put the flour, turmeric and lemon zest in a food processor, add the oil and egg mixture and blend to a crumbly dough. It might require extra flour or oil. Once the dough has come together and is smooth (you may need to work it a little by hand), divide it into four thick, rectangular blocks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days.
Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Take one piece of dough and flatten it on the floured surface with a rolling pin. Set your pasta machine to the widest setting and pass the dough through. Repeat, narrowing the setting by a notch each time, until you get to the lowest setting. When each sheet is rolled, keep it under a moist towel so it doesn’t dry out.
To make the filling. Combine the filling ingredients (apart from the egg white) in a bowl and crush together with a fork.
Use a pastry cutter or the rim of a glass to stamp out roughly 3-inch discs from the pasta sheets. To shape each raviolo, brush a disc with a little egg white and place a heaped teaspoon of filling in its center. Place another pasta disc on top. Dip your fingers in flour, then gently press out any air as you seal the edges of the two discs together. You should end up with a pillow-shaped center surrounded by an edge that is just under 3/8 inch wide. Seal the sides of the edges together firmly until you can’t see a seam where the two discs meet. As they are made, place the ravioli on a dish towel or tray sprinkled with flour. Leave to dry for 10 to 15 minutes. (You can now cover the tray with plastic wrap and keep the ravioli in the fridge for a day.)
When ready to cook, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Cook the pasta for 2 to 3 minutes, or until al dente. Drain and divide among four plates. Sprinkle with pink peppercorns, tarragon and lemon zest. Drizzle oil over the ravioli and around them, sprinkle with extra salt and a squirt of lemon juice, if you like, and serve at once.
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